Greystoke Mahale
Greystoke Mahale sits on a secluded white-sand beach on Lake Tanganyika, with the densely forested Mahale Mountains rising directly behind. Nomad Tanzania owns and runs the camp. The name borrows from Tarzan’s fictional title, Viscount Greystoke, a fitting reference for a lodge this far from any road. As a result, Greystoke remains one of the most genuinely remote camps anywhere in Africa, reached only by light aircraft and boat.
Design and Setting
Open-fronted bandas, built from reclaimed dhow wood, sit tucked into the treeline along the beach. They’re almost invisible to fishermen passing in their canoes offshore. Each banda backs onto the forest, with a partially open-air en-suite bathroom blending directly into the surrounding greenery. An upstairs chillout deck and the camp’s two-storey bar, known as the Big Bird Bar, both look out across the lake toward the mountains.
Lake Tanganyika itself is the world’s second-deepest lake, warmed year-round by geothermal sources in its depths. It holds roughly 250 fish species found nowhere else. The lake’s clear, turquoise water and white-sand beach give Greystoke a genuinely unusual character, somewhere between a classic safari camp and a tropical island retreat.
Chimpanzee Trekking
Mahale Mountains National Park holds the largest known population of eastern chimpanzees in the world. Roughly a thousand individuals live across the forested slopes. The M-group has been habituated through decades of proximity to Japanese researchers since the 1960s. This allows visitors an unusually close encounter, often lasting up to an hour once a group is found. Treks range from fifteen minutes to several hours on foot, since no roads or vehicles operate within the park.
Guides at Greystoke know individual chimpanzees by name. Many camp managers worked for years as trackers before their current roles. During the dry season between August and October, chimpanzees often wander close to the lakeshore. Some even enter camp itself, drawn by nearby fruiting trees. The camp closes annually from mid-March through May, when heavy rains make forest trails impassable.
Beyond the Chimps
Kayaking, fishing and sailing on a traditional wooden dhow all feature at Greystoke, alongside swimming in the lake’s warm, clear water. Forest walks reveal colobus monkeys, yellow baboons and a rich variety of birds and butterflies. Mountain waterfalls offer a cooler swim for guests willing to hike a little further. For travellers seeking one of the continent’s most singular wildlife encounters, however, Greystoke Mahale remains without real comparison anywhere else in Africa.
Why Stay Here
- Access to the largest known population of eastern chimpanzees anywhere in the world
- A habituated chimpanzee community, studied since the 1960s, allowing close, extended encounters
- A genuinely remote setting on Lake Tanganyika, reached only by light aircraft and boat
- Open-fronted bandas built from reclaimed dhow wood, set directly on a white-sand beach
- A rare combination of jungle trekking and tropical lakeside relaxation within a single stay
Accommodation
Open-fronted bandas built from reclaimed dhow wood sit tucked into the treeline along the beach, each with a partially open-air en-suite bathroom and private veranda facing the lake.
Dining
Meals are served on the beach by candlelight or within the camp’s main lounge area, known as The Mess, with views extending across Lake Tanganyika.
Experiences
Chimpanzee trekking forms the core activity, alongside kayaking, fishing, dhow sailing and forest walks. Swimming in the lake and nearby mountain waterfalls round out the experience.
Best For
Experienced safari travellers seeking a singular wildlife encounter, and couples drawn to genuine remoteness and castaway romance.